Where Locals Go

The Londoner Pub and Grill

Review by Frank Geslani | Photos by Lorraine Haan-Stewart

It was a wet and gray afternoon in Colleyville. The day felt particularly Londonesque, so a visit to the newest location of The Londoner Pub and Grill felt particularly apt. The Londoner has other locations to the east, but this is the first location in Tarrant County for the locally-based chain.

The Londoners in Uptown Dallas and Lower Greenville have long been popular hangouts for catching a football game with the lads or a little spirited revelry (drunken or otherwise). As Londoner Pubs made their way into the suburbs, its slice-of-Anglophilia atmospherics have proven equally compelling to the families-with-kids set. On our recent visit, the kids outnumbered adults in our party. We came for an early lunch and the crowd was just starting to trickle in out of the rain. We pretty much had the run of the place, so we planted ourselves near the dart boards and chess tables. This proved the perfect diversion for ravenous kids.

Nothing typifies pub fare (besides the brew, of course) like fish and chips. The Londoner Colleyville serves a version that rivals some of the better versions I've had across the pond. Theirs comes with two meaty, moist and flaky fillets, the batter fried to a satisfying crisp. Both fish and chips were adequately seasoned and portionedテ「琶n all, a great dish that would have been enhanced by a lager, which works particularly well with fried foods.

Then thereテ「冱 that other staple from the pub grub playbook, shepherdテ「冱 pie. It's the textural antithesis to fish and chips. Where the later is the zenith of finger food, the former is all soft, saucy, spoonable warmth and comfort. Shepherdテ「冱 pie begs for simplicity, and The Londoner wisely chooses not to overcomplicate matters. Potatoes are silky, not crudely mashed nor overworked. Maximum meatiness and depth from basic aromatics have been coaxed into the savory gravy. Itテ「冱 another satisfying dish that would have benefitted from a pint of Guinness.

Americaテ「冱 contribution to the rich-on-rich pub food cannon is mac and cheese. Here, itテ「冱 called Big Boy Mac 'n Cheese, and oh boy, am I ever bigger after eating that. It is decadent, but flavorful. It gets an assist from smoky bacon, finely incorporated to counter the creaminess of the bechamel. I might go with a Pinot Noir with this one, only because I think Iテ「囘 need some polyphenols to deal with the aftermath.

Thereテ「冱 plenty of diversity on the menu if youテ「决e less inclined to binge on traditional pub fare. The little girls in our party enjoyed sharing hummus and warm pita wedges. There are salads, like the curried chicken salad, if youテ「决e inclined to eat a little more virtuously. If youテ「决e really watching your intake, perhaps a beer pairing isnテ「冲 in order at this point. But I say thereテ「冱 always room for dessert, and The Londoner makes a gooey, caramelly, spoton authentic sticky toffee pudding that arrives in a brick sized portion, which ought to encourage (though not guarantee) sharing.

I didnテ「冲 partake of the brew this time, but it took nothing away from the pub experience. A few games of darts, the entryway slicked with wet footprints trailing in from the trench coat weather outside, the stalwart Union Jack against dark walls all added up to a scene straight out of Covent Garden or Holborn, or any random London neighborhood I can scrape from the recesses of my mind. With a memory as flawed as mine, perhaps a few less drinks would do me some good anyway.

The Londoner Pub and Grill テつ |テつテつ 5150 Colleyville Blvd. テつ |テつテつ Colleyville 76034テつ
(817) 581 - 3577 テつ |テつ www.thelondonerpub.com