Where Locals Go

BISTRO M

Main Street Bistro and Bakery

Review by Frank Geslani | Photos by Lorraine Haan-Stewart

It looks like a doughnut, but eats like richly textured puff pastry. The initial craquelure crunch is almost like biting into layers of freshly fried potato chips. Even with a caramel glaze, its crispness is undeniable, though it quickly gives way to tenderness. The dough has a caramelized sweetness that can only be forged from deep frying. By the time you reach the creamy center, you wish every doughnut could be this transcendent. But this is no doughnut. And this is not (exactly) a cronut.

If you havenテ「冲 heard of a cronut, you may be living in a hole (though not a cronut hole). If you have heard of them, you know that New Yorkers have gone cray-cray (or is it croi-croi?) for these croissant-doughnut hybrids created by chef Dominique Ansel and sold exclusively at his eponymous bakery.

News outlets giddily report on the hours-long waits to snag the coveted pastry, then interview the poor sap who reached the counter just as the last cronut was sold. The two-cronut minimum has spawned an inevitable black market. Craigslist ads peddle cronut テ「徑inesittingテ「 services for $35. NYU students offer $80 cronut delivery for two cronuts plus the cost of a metro ticket. At a recent charity auction, a former IBM executive paid $14,000 for a dozen cronuts, which she split with her table. (At a fourth of a cronut per couple, thatテ「冱 about $292 a bite).

Here in DFW, we can afford to be smug about this cronut lunacy. Then again, we all really want to try one, donテ「冲 we? After all, we are in the epicenter of ungodly deep-fried concoctions. Fortunately for us, we have Main Street Bistro and Bakery (soon to be rebranded as Bistro M).

Main Streetテ「冱 executive pastry chef, Pierre Thilliez, has crafted his own version called the Croi-Dough-Nut (Ansel has trademarked the word テ「彡ronutテ「). The concept is the sameテ「把roissant dough cut into a doughnut shape and fried, but thatテ「冱 pretty much where the similarities end.

Anselテ「冱 original is coated in sugar, filled with pastry cream, and topped with glaze, with the flavor changing every month. Thilliezテ「冱 version is split in half to sandwich a creme brulee filling, topped with salted caramel glaze, and drizzled with a chocolate glaze. I have not had Anselテ「冱 version, but on pure description alone, Thilliezテ「冱 wins it for me. He had me at creme brulee.

I would imagine that a dough lacquered with so much butter would simply disintegrate in a fryer, but the Croi-Dough-Nut maintains its integrity. Thilliez swears it is their traditional croissant dough cut into doughnut shapes and fried, but I suspect heテ「冱 holding onto some proprietary secrets of his own.

It is at once reminiscent of a croissant, but something wholly different. It has more in common texturally with a napoleon cross-bred with that other buttery French sensation, kouign amman. And for something that looks so rich, its sweetness is remarkably balanced.

Of course there are other cronut wannabes around town, from the corner doughnut counter to high end restaurants, but youテ「囘 be hard pressed to find one as beautifully executed as Main Street Bistro and Bakerys. They have, after all, aced the croissant for yearsテ「杯he golden, crackly crust, the gorgeously honeycombed layers, the caramel and butter aromas.

Regulars can expect the same fastidious attention to quality from the Croi-Dough-Nut as from standbys like chocolate eclairs or The Bombe. Weテ「况e come to expect it from seasonal delicacies like pumpkin pie and Buche de Noel.

After all, you donテ「冲 go to Main Street Bistro and Bakery expecting to eat something fashionable. You go expecting to eat something delicious.

Bistrom M Main Street Bistro and Bakeryテつ |テつ 316 South Main Streetテつ |テつ Grapevine 76051
(817) 424-4333テつ |テつ www.themainbakery.com