Where Locals Go

Twisted Root
Burger Company

Review by Frank Geslani | Photos by Lorraine Haan-Stewart

Jessica Alba, your order is ready! You believe it for a nanosecond. Jessica Alba! Here?! But itテ「冱 all part of that gentle gotcha game that the Twisted Root Burger Co. concocted to keep its hungry patrons smirking. Twisted Root co-ops celebrity pop culture figuresテ「背hose well-known names are scrawled with a Sharpie on laminated note cards instead of those flashy, vibrating plastic coasters that seem to be everywhereテ「杯o tell you when your food is ready to fetch from the counter. When you eat here youテ「决e not just a number, youテ「决e a celebrity.

No, Jessica isnテ「冲 at Twisted Root, and neither is Paul Stanley, Peter Pan or Foghorn Leghorn. Iテ「冤l be willing to bet Jessica Alba has never even heard of Roanoke, Texas. (People in Irving donテ「冲 know where Roanoke is.) Neither did Twisted Root owner, Jason Boso, for that matter.

Roanoke Mayor Scotty Gierisch visited the original Deep Ellum restaurant and was impressed enough to extend Boso an invitation to check out his fair town. テ「廬 was like, where?テ「 recalls Boso. Most of us who live along the Alliance corridor are aware of Roanokeテ「冱 burgeoning restaurant row, but for Boso it was a revelation.

テ「廬 saw the wait outside Babeテ「冱 on a weekday and that was it,テ「 says Boso. He had found that elusive combo: small town character with a built-in population base of nearby businesses and families. テ「廬tテ「冱 the antithesis of Southlake Town Square,テ「 says Boso about the main Oak Street thoroughfare and its immediate surroundings. Heテ「冱 right. Despite some aggressive street improvements and new construction (including Twisted Root and its sister restaurant, Cowboy Chow), thereテ「冱 a real sense of history here, and this no-nonsense burger joint has done an admirable job of fitting right in.

Great food is the best way to accomplish that. There is an assuredness to their burgers. Hand-rolled pattiesテ「蚤 special blend of chuck and brisketテ「蚤re blessedly fuss-free, but with some well-chosen add-ons like local goat cheese and chipotle sauce, make it surprisingly sophisticated. Burgers donテ「冲 just come in the beef variety. Thereテ「冱 also turkey, buffalo, a veggie burger and even ostrich. Try the Western Burger loaded with pepperjack cheese, bacon, jalapeno and an onion ring. A patty never had it so good.

Fried sides are a must. The Fried Rideテ「蚤 sampler of sweet potato chips, Twisted French Fries, fried green beans, onion strings and fried picklesテ「琶s heart-stopping bliss. Youテ「冤l want to wash this meal down with a shake, only Twisted Rootテ「冱 thick version is made in a frozen custard machine. Youテ「冤l need a spoon for this one. We liked the Oreo shakeテ「背ith or without a shot of Amaretto. Homemade root beer floats are a knockout, too, but for a real icy blast try the blueberry basil snow cone (it is currently available only at the Twisted Root Roanoke location).

Just about everythingテ「杷rom the pickles to the root beerテ「琶s homemade. Many of the ingredients are locally-sourced. Takeout boxes and cups are made from sustainable and compostable materials. None of these special touches would matter a lick if the food wasnテ「冲 (as proclaimed on their website) テ「彜ofa King Tasty.テ「

Fortunately, Boso and his teamテ「冱 culinary chops really shine through. Thereテ「冱 a lot of thoughtfulness at work here, though someone had way too much fun coming up with this restaurant concept. Burgers should be eaten with a smile. Hold that thought...

Twisted Root Burger Companyテつ |テつ 101 S. Oak Streetテつ |テつ Roanoke 76262
(817) 490-6628テつ |テつ www.twistedrootburgerco.com