Where Locals Go

Boi Na Braza

Review by Frank Geslani | Photos by Lorraine Haan-Stewart

I havenテ「冲 eaten anything all day, except for an apple. My stomach is taking a preemptive digestion break in preparation for Boi Na Braza, the Brazilian protein palace inGrapevine. Iテ「况e eaten at Brazilian steak houses before, and it can be exhilarating. Boi Na Braza has been a consistent player in the popular churrascaria formula. Hereテ「冱 a short primer for the uninitiated.

Start with a caipirinha, Brazilテ「冱 national cocktail. The muddled lime will help salve the onslaught of meat, at least thatテ「冱 what you tell yourself.

Youテ「冤l be tempted by a basket of cheese popovers and an assortment of teasers: crispy polenta straws, fried yucca, rizoles (two-bite beef empanadas) and fried bananas. The cheese bread is light as air despite the fact that it contains, well, cheese! Frying has given the bananas a complex sweetness. The rizoles hint at beefy goodness to come. Okay, go ahead and take a biteテ「ツヲand anotherテ「ツヲand another. Iテ「况e given you fair warning.

You glance over at the ample salad bar (a Zagat テ「廝est Of テ「 Nominee). Itテ「冱 officially called a テ「徭aladテ「 bar, but curls of fried bacon, rice and black beans, sauteed shitakemushrooms and creamy mashed potatoes very loosely qualify. Regardless, youテ「冤l feel like piling it on. Steal your resolve and opt for a few palate cleansers: roasted baby beets for earthy sweetness, marinated artichokes for acidity and hearts of palm just because theyテ「决e delicious.

Now comes the headliner: an almost endless parade of roasted meats. See the coaster-sized card on the table? It gets things rolling. Red on one side means テ「stop,テ「 green on the other means テ「枠o.テ「 Flip the card to green, brace yourself for a quick second, then give in. Gauchos (as the traditionally costumed servers are called) magically appear bearing meat impaled by sword-sized skewers.

Start with the picanha. Itテ「冱 a rump cut thatテ「冱 artfully curved to allow the outer layer of fat to baste the flavorful meat. Youテ「冤l certainly want to try each cut as they come, but timing is key. An ideal progression would begin with less aggressively seasoned cutsテ「廃icanha, top sirloin, gorgeous beef ribsテ「杯hen proceed with the rest.

Save the bolder flavors for later, including garlic rump roast, bacon-wrapped filet mignon, parmesan pork, house sausage, and perhaps the tastiest preparation of chicken legs ever. You can sample about 15 different cuts, all well-prepared.

Youテ「冤l wonder why you keep eating despite faint brain signals telling you that youテ「决e full. My best guess is that the gauchosテ「 genial, soft-spoken manner is lulling you into capitulation. Each gaucho is charged with no more than two cuts of meat, which he also cooks. Itテ「冱 like having a chef coming out of the kitchen to personally serve you, but many times over.

Then you figure it out: itテ「冱 that darn stop-go card. Flip it to red, already and take a breather. Bask in the surprising invigoration of beefy bombardment. If you can manage it, share a refreshing papaya cream topped with cassis for dessert. Papaya naturally aids digestion, at least thatテ「冱 what you tell yourself.

Boi Na Brazaテつ |テつ 4025 William D. Tate Avenueテつ |テつ Grapevine 76051
(817) 329 - 5514テつ |テつ www.boinabraza.com